Vintage in Pills LANVIN Spring 2005 Paris – Fashion Channel
Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz centered this collection on volume and weightlessness, a concept born from the “big gestures” he was restricted to while sketching. The results included generous skirts and puffy silhouettes, executed in exquisite hues ranging from intense violet to sophisticated neutrals.
Elbaz addressed the traditional difficulty of wearing full skirts by transforming silk faille and gazar through washing, eliminating bulk and adding bounce to flounces and gathers. This attention to ease was also evident in pieces like a sleeveless mauve dress that blossomed below the waist, and a trench coat cut to swing out in a glorious swirl.
For a slimmer line, Elbaz introduced refined Greek pleats, referencing both Madame Grès’ ribbon-bound couture and the flowy rivulets of Mariano Fortuny’s tunics, making them as simple to wear as a T-shirt.
Decoration was integrated through strands of pearl tied with ribbon or studded with blue stones, and coin or brass-bobble embellishment applied to jackets or integrated into shirts, making the “fancy stuff” feel entirely contemporary.
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