MAISON MARGIELA Fall 2026 Paris – Fashion Channel
Maison Margiela’s Fall 2026 collection under Glenn Martens was presented in a Shanghai container yard, marking the house’s first runway show outside Paris. The industrial setting, surrounded by stacked shipping containers, framed the collection within a context of global circulation and material exchange, contrasting with its focus on fragmentation and reconstruction.
The starting point was the house’s practice of creative upcycling. The studio worked from 19th-century porcelain dolls, translating their fragility into garments built from broken, mosaic-like surfaces. One key look was a heavy dress constructed from shattered porcelain-like fragments that shifted with movement. This idea extended into layered organza pieces, printed and hand-worked to evoke smooth, painted doll surfaces, often paired with partial masks that obscured the face.
Eveningwear explored garments as second skins, with jersey tightly stretched over internal tailoring structures, exposing the architecture beneath. This approach continued into leather pieces, where jackets, trousers, and dresses were constructed with exposed seams and unfinished edges, emphasising process over closure.
The Bianchetto technique reappeared across tailored silhouettes, knits, and draped gowns, creating surfaces that felt simultaneously built up and worn away. Additional garments incorporated aged textiles, metal wires, jacquards, and tapestries, reworked into new forms while retaining traces of their original material histories.
Historical references emerged through preserved 19th century dresses that were mounted, restructured, or transferred onto new fabrics, creating imprints that suggested presence and absence at once. Draping played a central role, with complex folds in taffeta and metallic materials shaping movement around the body, set against sharper tailored constructions.
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